Where Do I Put My EON Jellyfish Tank?

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in EON Tips and Tricks, FAQs

Eon on a table

Jellyfish tanks are a beautiful addition to any interior space, but like any work of three-dimensional art, it’s important to consider which part of the room can best accentuate its features. In the case of your tank, placement is also an issue of utility.

First off, your tank’s flow is powered by an electric pump, and the display is illuminated by LED light strips, each of which require their own power supply. So make sure you have a spot in mind with an empty power outlet or a power strip with at least two open plugs nearby.

The second thing to consider is the surface underneath your tank. The system will weigh roughly 85 lbs. once it’s full of water, so it needs to be kept on a table or counter that can bear that kind of load. It’s also critical that your surface is completely level; even a small degree of tilt could interfere with the function of your system and spray bars, which will create air bubbles in the tank that can hurt your jellies.

Last but not least is the position of your tank within the room. Though you might your little friends to have a nice view of the outside world, you should never place your tank anywhere near a window, especially if that window gets direct sunlight during the day. Sun exposure can cause your system’s temperature to fluctuate to dangerous extremes for your jellies, and it leads to unappealing amounts of algae buildup.

So, the quick recap:

Keep the tank on a sturdy, level table or countertop, make sure it’s not too close to any windows or in the path of direct sunlight, and have at least two open plugs nearby.

Having Trouble with Low pH?

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in Keeping a Healthy Tank

Low pH can have adverse effects on moon jellyfish over time, especially when it drops below 7.6. This problem is common in aquariums with filtration systems that don’t allow for adequate aeration or disturbance of water.

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The optimal pH for moon jellyfish is 8.0-8.2. As pH lowers below this range, the water becomes more acidic and harbors excess carbon dioxide (CO₂). If prolonged, the lower-than-optimal pH can cause pitting in the bell, eversion, and bell shrinkage in jellies. Although moon jellyfish are commonly described as being “hardy” and “tolerant” of extreme water quality levels, too extreme can and will eventually cause them damage.

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A damaged jellyfish after living in <7.6 water. Photo from our Cubic Orbit 20 Aeration video.

 

Filters that allow for splashing and rapid movement of water through them introduces oxygen to the system, keeping the pH up by steadily off-gassing that harmful CO₂. When filters are completely submerged in water, the rate at which the water is moving through them is little to none and can negatively affect both the water quality of your aquarium and the beneficial bacteria that you’ve worked so hard to grow during cycling. If the water isn’t moving through the filters, then the filters are doing nothing to clean the water. Adequate and efficient water flow through the filters is necessary for both the water quality and beneficial bacteria to stay in tip-top shape.

Luckily, this is an easy fix!

There’s all kinds of water conditioners, additives, and buffers on the market today that are specifically made to raise pH… for normal fish tanks, however. Since jellyfish are 96% water, they are a bit more sensitive to the chemical makeup of water than normal saltwater fish. So, adding in a bunch of chemical powders and liquids, especially into a small desktop jellyfish aquarium with less than 10 gallons of volume, isn’t always the best idea and can cause more harm than good! So, don’t do it!

Instead, we recommend the following tips to help keep your pH optimal:

  1. Adding a bubbler is an easy and worry-free fix to raise pH. Bubblers (also known as aerators) constantly introduce oxygen to the water via bubbles. Most aerators include a valve or dial to alter the rate of bubbles giving you more control, which is even better.
    • It’s best to place the bubbler in the filter compartment, away from the pump,  and as far down to the bottom of the tank as possible. This way, the bubbles are not being sucked into the pump and have a longer path to reach the surface, releasing a bit more oxygen into the water.
    • We like this singular speed one or this adjustable one, both available from Amazon
    • Note: You do not need an air stone, if one is included. These will only create smaller, erratic bubbles that have a higher chance of getting sucked up by the pump and into the jellyfish area – which you don’t want!
  2. Always make sure your new saltwater has a pH of 8.0-8.2. This will help raise the overall pH of your aquarium and keep it up through weekly water changes.

 

We experienced this problem when working with the 6 gallon Cubic Orbit 20 jellyfish aquarium, as you can see in the video below that we put together some time ago.

 

 

Jellyfish Bell Inversion

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in Sick Jellyfish?

What is Jellyfish Inversion?

Technically called “eversion,” it’s defined as the process of turning inside-out. In jellyfish, eversion is when the outer perimeter of the bell has flipped up and over the top of the bell, creating a saucer or cup-like body shape. The oral arms of the jellyfish also hang down and are not tucked up under the bell, as per a healthy jellyfish.

[Note: “eversion” is when the bell is flipped inward; “inversion” is when the bell is flipped outward. “Inversion” is commonly used instead to describe this process in jellyfish.]

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Common Causes

Here are things that can cause jellyfish bell eversion:

  • Malnutrition leads to thin and weak jellyfish that are prone to flip
  • Flow rate is too high causing the jellyfish to spin like socks in a dryer
    • This prevents jellyfish from belling or swimming naturally, which means they also are not eating properly, ultimately leading to malnutrition
  • Flow rate is too low and the jellyfish are unable to bell properly due to the lack of “support” they get from the water movement
    • Belling problems always lead to eating problems—if they can’t bell properly, they can’t eat well, causing malnutrition (again) and creating thin, everted jellyfish
  • Physical damage that occurs when a jellyfish becomes stuck to the bottom or side of the tank for over an hour, damaging their bell

Luckily, these are all fixable issues!

Solutions

Happy and healthy jellyfish should have rounded bells

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Here’s how you can prevent eversion from happening:

  • Feed only nutritious, neutrally-buoyant foods on a daily basis to maintain proper cell growth and function
  • Adjust the flow rate just enough to keep the jellies off the bottom of the tank, but not so much that they are being propelled around the tank.
    • When trying to find the perfect flow, adjust your flow control valves and wait 20 mins between each adjustment to watch for a difference
    • Want to see an example of what proper flow looks like? Check out a few of our jellyfish aquarium videos on YouTube.
  • Maintain the proper flow rate and the jellies will not have the opportunity to get stuck for long periods of time

Read more about the physical differences between HAPPY (healthy) and SAD (unhealthy) moon jellyfish on our Jellyfish Troubleshooting page.

My New Jellyfish Arrived Damaged… Is It Dead? What Do I Do?

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in Sick Jellyfish?

Although it’s quite rare, sometimes our jellyfish can have a rough transit experience resulting in them arriving in less-than-perfect condition. We take every precaution to prevent this from happening by making sure our shipping methods are as safe and protective as possible,  but there still remains a bit of risk when shipping any live animals. Once they leave our doorstep, we unfortunately can’t control how they are handled by the shipping carriers.

They can arrive with holes or tears in the bell, as shown in the picture below…

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Picture submitted from one of our customers.

…which is not what you want to see when opening up your bag of jellies! You want to be joyous and excited to get them acclimated into your jellyfish tank!

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Gif courtesy of our EON Instructional Video Series.

Most of the time, damage during the transit process is caused by the jellyfish becoming suctioned to a side of the bag once the package is at rest. When the package is picked up and begins to move again, the jellyfish becomes forcibly un-suctioned, resulting in them being torn away from the bag. It happens, but the good news is jellyfish are very good at repairing themselves!

“How do I know if my jellyfish is dead?” Good question. 99% of the time a jellyfish arrives in less-than-perfect condition, it’s not dead. Unless the jellyfish in question is completely mangled, balled up, or disintegrated to pieces, it’s not dead and there’s a very good chance it will get better once acclimated with good saltwater and good food.

Here’s what to do after your jellyfish are delivered:

  1. Inspect the box and inside styrofoam for any damage. Take the bag of jellies out of the styrofoam box and read the Acclimation Instructions and Return Policy label on the lid.
  2. Before opening the bag, observe your jellies by slowly turning the bag around to get them moving. Observe the overall condition of their bodies. If you find a jellyfish with a hole or tear in the bell, don’t freak out. Instead, take a picture of the jellyfish in question (following the instructions on the label) and email us to see if it’s a serious issue. It’s easiest to grab a photo if you hold the bag up in front of a light.
  3. Observe their activity level. Most of the time, new jellyfish will arrive belling and ready to come out of the bag. Sometimes they can arrive sluggish, exhibit slow belling, or with retracted tentacles from the rare case of being excessively tossed around during transit.  There’s nothing to worry about. Once acclimated to clean, fresh saltwater, they should perk up quickly!

***Please note: After proper acclimation, happy and healthy jellyfish do not need more than a few hours to become fully comfortable with their new environment. If your jellyfish is not belling or slow-moving for longer than 24 hours, there is potentially an issue with the jellyfish or water chemistry of the aquarium.  It does not take 1-2 weeks for jellyfish to get used to the new tank water; this is a misconception.***

The video below shows the condition moon jellyfish should arrive in. Round, open bells. Untangled tentacles. These are definitely happy and healthy jellies!

 

 

 

My EON Jellyfish Tank Isn’t Level. So What?

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in EON Tips and Tricks

 

Your jelly friends are in danger, that’s what!

Let me start by saying this video and post were inspired by a real customer of ours, and the tank pictured is his real system. He was doing everything right to cycle his tank before he ordered his jellies, but for some reason the bacteria just weren’t doing what they were supposed to and his tank’s ammonia levels wouldn’t go down.

As we can see in the video, his tank was not quite level on its stand, and that was forcing the water to trickle unevenly over one side of the drip tray and bypass the other side. While that might not sound like such a big deal, it’s actually a recipe for disaster.

When your tank is leaning to one side, most of the water will obviously tend to flow that way, which means that all of your system water is flowing through only a very small part of your filter media. So not only will that water not be filtered properly, but the bacteria on the dry side of the filter media won’t be able to survive well enough to cycle your system and keep it healthy. Beyond that, keeping your tank on uneven surfaces can create uneven flow from the spray bars, cause a full sump to overflow and create troublesome air bubbles.

So what happens if you notice your tank isn’t quite level? Don’t panic! Just do what this customer did: wedge something underneath the low side of your system and adjust it until the drip tray gets proper flow! A simple fix like this can be the difference between a healthy system and toxic water, so keep an eye out!

Flow Control: A Matter of Life and DEATH

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in EON Tips and Tricks

valves

Okay, it might not be that dramatic, but the amount of flow in your tank does have a huge impact on the health of your jellies.

Jellies are considered planktonic, which means they cannot swim freely against a current and therefore rely on some sort of flow to stay afloat. However, this doesn’t mean they need to be propelled through your system at mach 3. When you make your jellies race each other, nobody wins!

When the valves in the behind your EON jellyfish tank are fully open, like the one on the left side of the picture above, the your jellies will move so fast that they won’t be able to catch their food efficiently, nor will they be able to hold onto it if they do capture some. It’s almost like they’re getting motion sickness on the tilt-a-whirl at a carnival… forever. Understandably, they won’t react well to starvation and will stop belling and start shrinking until they die.

Instead, keep your valves at about 50% flow like the picture on the right. This gives them enough circulation to stay off the bottom of the tank while still giving them enough freedom to bell around and hold down their lunch.

Just remember: if the flow is too high, jellies die, moderate flow, good to go!

EON Instructional Video Series! “Part 3: Acclimating Your New Jellyfish”

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in EON Tips and Tricks

Now that your EON Jellyfish System is completely cycled, it’s ready for jellyfish! Watch Part 3 in our EON Instructional Video Series to learn about optimal water quality parameters for moon jellyfish and how to properly acclimate your new jellyfish once they’ve arrived at your doorstep.

SCRIPT.

Part 3: Acclimating Your New Jellyfish Opening sequence.

–

“It’s the moment you’ve been waiting for! Your tank is cycled and you’ve placed your very first order for jellyfish! Now wait one business day for delivery…”

–

“In the meantime, why don’t you double check to be sure your system water is suitable for new friends?”

–

“Your pH checks out.”

–

“Oh no, looks like your salinity is a little too high. You’ll need to bring it down by adding reverse osmosis or distilled water.”

–

“You can add freshwater to two places in your tank: the main viewing area or the sump.”

–

“NEVER add freshwater into your filter box.”

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“This can kill all of the tiny bacteria you’ve worked so hard to grow!”

–

“Excellent, it looks like your tank is ready for jellies.”

–

“Well what are you waiting for? Let’s get them into their new home!”

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“Don’t forget to take a look in the bag first to make sure they arrived safely.”

–

“Cut the bag below the metal bracket, then pull the tab to release the rubber band—No, no, no! Didn’t you read the sticker on the box?”

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“You have to acclimate them first.”

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“Take out a little water and slowly place the bag in your tank to float for 15 minutes to acclimate them to the water temperature.”

–

“Gently transfer your jellies with a ladle into a small cup full of water from the bag.”

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“Carefully perform small water changes in the cup every 20 minutes for one hour to acclimate them to your tank’s water chemistry.”

–

“Now your jellies are ready to be released into your tank. Just look at those little guys go.”

–

Closing sequence.

The Dangers of Tap Water

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in Keeping a Healthy Tank
water drops from stainless steel faucet
Photo by PS Photography on Pexels.com

Despite what some conspiracy theorists might shout at you, tap water is generally safe to drink for humans. For jellyfish, on the other hand, it might as well be poison.

Tap water contains small amounts of metals and minerals that you and I can hardly notice when we drink from the sink, but even in small concentrations, these elements can seriously disrupt a small jelly’s bodily functions and cause them to shrivel and stop belling. This is why we insist that whenever you add saltwater to your tank, whether you’re filling it for the first time or performing a routine water change, you ALWAYS mix the salt with either reverse osmosis (RO) water or distilled water, and NEVER use water from the tap, no matter how nice your filter pitcher might be.

Same goes for bringing your salinity down with freshwater: ONLY use RO or distilled when adding fresh water to your system.

*** Side note: bottled water is not always distilled water. Your jellies don’t drink Dasani! Jugs of distilled water are available at most grocery stores, but beware as there will be various types of water. Be sure it is labeled only as “Distilled Water” and not “Spring Water,” “Purified Water,” “Mineral Water,” “Alkaline Water,” or anything else. ***

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Additionally, if your system maintenance requires filters to be rinsed periodically, it is best to do so with old saltwater taken from your system during a water change, rather than just running it under the sink. Your tank’s beneficial bacteria don’t care much for tap water either, and you certainly don’t want to make them unhappy.

The same rule applies with your algae scrubbers and any other items you might rinse and stick back in your tank. ALWAYS give them a quick dunk in some old salt water or some RO/distilled water and allow them to air dry before you place them back in your system. Your jellies will thank you!

 

EON Instructional Video Series! “Part 2: Cycling Your EON”

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in EON Tips and Tricks

After setting up your new EON Jellyfish System, you’ll need to cycle it before introducing jellyfish! Cycling is one of the most important steps in setting up any saltwater aquarium. Watch Part 2 of our EON Instructional Video Series to see how to properly cycle your new jellyfish aquarium.

 

SCRIPT.

Part 2: Cycling Your EON Opening sequence.

–

“So now you’ve unpacked your new EON jellyfish system as explained in part one of this series— Whoa whoa, hold your horses there, partner! Your tank isn’t ready for animals yet! Your system has to cycle first! Cycling is one of the most important steps in the whole process.”

–

“No, no, no. NITROGEN cycling.”

–

“Your system needs to establish stable nitrogen levels in the water! Establishing a stable community of helpful bacteria in your tank is essential to the health of both your system and your jellies.”

–

“All you need is:

  • bacteria source,
  • saltwater test kit, and
  • ammonia source (in this case, shrimp)”

–

“First, place a pea-sized piece of the shrimp on the top of your mechanical filter pad underneath the drip tray.”

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“Give your bacteria a good shake and pour about 3 ounces down the filter box and let the cycling begin!”

–

“This is where your test kit comes in handy. You’ll need to check your water chemistry every week to monitor your system’s progress. Hmm… maybe this would be more helpful in color. Ah, that’s better. After one week, there won’t be much of a change.”

–

“By week two, we should see a spike in ammonia.”

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“During the third week we see the ammonia start to fall while the nitrite begins to spike.”

–

“And finally after about four weeks your system’s bacteria have eaten up all the ammonia and nitrite.”

–

“So, congratulations! Your tank is ready for jellies.”

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“If you’d like some help with the process, visit sunsetmarinelab.com and click the black banner to signup for our Fish-less Cycling Program©. If you successfully cycle your tank through our program, you’ll receive three jellies!”

–

“Our customer service team is standing by to help you through the process step-by-step.”

–

CLOSING SEQUENCE.

How Long Will My Pet Moon Jellies Stay Alive in my Tank?

by sunsetmarinelabs, posted in FAQs

Eon and logo

If you’re looking into getting new pets, it’s always important to consider how long they’ll be with you, especially if you’re going to make the effort to set up a specific living space for them.

In our many years of experience, we’ve found that in small home aquariums, your pet moon jellies will typically live for about one year after their strobilation, or their ‘birth’, from the polyps.

Now that doesn’t mean they will necessarily live a full year in your tank. The distinction here is that we aren’t sending you a set of one-day-old jellies. It takes around 2 months for us to raise them to the 1-inch ‘small’ size, so by the time they get to your tank, they’ll have another 10 months to go. If you get the 2-inch medium size, it’ll probably be closer to 9 months, and so on.

But that’s only an average!

If you keep your jellies happy and fed with a stable water system, healthy bacteria, and constant water chemistry, they could last even longer. It all comes down to how well you maintain your system. And since you’re reading this blog, you’re well on your way to being a true jellyfish master– the sky’s the limit!